Welcome to the Bastide life in South West France
Wide open green pastures, quaint medieval towns, flurries of snowflakes dusting the century-old rooftops and a feeling of peace calming your entire human being, this is our welcome to the 'Coeur de Bastides' - Heart of the new cities of the Middle Ages.
Quiggy and I are home sitting at Douzains, in a remodelled 2-300 year old home, caring for 3 gentle horses and 2 mischievous cats. Our hosts are a fun English couple, Baz and Vicki, who welcome us with a home cooked meal of poulet aux champignons à la crème and a warm, wood burning fire. We have our own guest wing 'gîtes' with views of rolling green hills and the winding road into town. We couldn't be happier and feel we are living exactly how we wanted to be when we first imagined our world trip; like a local getting a real local experience.
Before our hosts jet-setted off on their break, Baz kindly offered to show us around town. Into the barn he unveils our transport, a bright red and yellow Citroen 2CV or as he calls it 'the Noddy car'. How authentic!
Going to town's High Street is a bit different from home in Melbourne and more like a fairy tale. You have wonderfully preserved buildings that house the butcher 'boucher', the baker 'boulanger', a couple of cafe's, and a bicycle maker that hasn't been seen for many years. There is though a little shop's front window boasting of it's past vendor - Theodore Joyeaux. The true inspiration for the Tour de France, it claims he was the first person to complete the Tour de France of 5,500km in 19 days. From 1887 to 1939 he was a barber 'coiffeur' at this store.
Coeur de Bastides has several village towns all within short driving distances and most hosting a market one day of the week. These markets are well worth the visit. First you are mesmerised by the architecture, the windy little lanes and the disbelief that people actually live in what looks like a movie set from A Knights Tale. Next your eyes and nose lead you to the fresh pastries, breads, cheeses, meats, paella, seafood, truffles, wines and all the other most delicious things in life.
We were lured by a non-english speaking cheese monger to sample his products. Giant wheels of cheeses are displayed with descriptions we cannot understand but we do know we like the taste. Feeling obligated we decide we must buy from him now we've eaten so much cheese already. He lays down the giant wheel (I chose a blue), he puts the knife to the wheel and says here? to demonstrate the size of the slice. It looks small enough next to the big wheel so I say "yes". Quiggy decides we must buy another cheese to show our appreciation (to this day we still don't know what it is). Again the knife goes down, again we say "yes". Getting excited about enjoying our cheese platter later in the day, the monger says something we don't understand. He shows us the scales - 32Euros! WTF (not sure of french translation). He sees our shocked faces, looks at scale and realises he's made a mistake. We are both relieved, that was almost our entire daily travel budget gone in cheese! After correcting the scales he points down again. 29Euros! Lesson learned - big wheels are not conducive to small budgets. The cheese is amazing and the story makes us laugh and mmmm every time we eat it.
We've had plenty of laughs just with the everyday tasks. Going out for lunch is always fun in the village. You see in France lunch is not merely for Quiggy and I who've worked up an appetite tending to the animals and home, nope, lunch is for everyone including the restaurant, cafe and shop owners. It's down tools and close doors for an hour or two, or a day or two, or whenever they want to really. I cannot tell you how many times Quiggy, who needs a daily fix of coffee and now pastries, said "how do these people stay in business when they're closed all the time even though their sign says open?". Lesson learned - value the pleasure in relaxing and eating a long lunch at home like the French do.
When we have managed to catch them before they close we've had some great conversations with those we meet. Everyone knows we're not English (there are many Brits living the life in France) or American, and are surprised to know we are Australian. We met a couple whose daughter is living in Prahran, a boulanger whose son is also in Melbourne, a chef pâtissier dreaming of visiting Australia, and all are excited to know how we came to be in their village. That story takes a bit of explaining but it's nice to know the French love Australia and they have all been very kind to us especially with our lack of their language.
There is a strong sense of community in the villages and it's been wonderful to be a part of it. When Quiggy and I first arrived at Bergerac train station, the nearest to our home sit, Vicky drove the 30km to pick us up with her friend Julia. We naively assumed we could catch a taxi back to the station when we were to depart. Little did we know that there are no taxis and Uber or a bus are not an option. Despite the sad news Julia had dealt with through the week, and the extra work she now had on her plate, she so kindly offered to take us, got up way too early, melted the ice off her car and drove the miles to pick us up and return us to the station all the while with a smile and a 'that's how we roll in the village' attitude. After living in the city, village life is very appealing indeed.
#Back after lunch
#Skip fast food
#Go enjoy the Village life